Autumn 2025

[Jayhickson]

This year I visited Crete in the autumn as I was setting up a new business in the spring. I spent 20 days there and gave myself many more rest days than usual - particularly in Anopoli and Frankokastello. Over the 13 days I walked, I covered around 240km and 11,000m of ascent

After arriving in Chania, I spent the next day at the excellent Botanic Gardens of Crete. Great restaurant too. The following day I took the bus to Omalos, it was quiet as the gorge was closed. That afternoon I did a circular walk following a fractured kalderimi around Kaimeni Kefala

https://loc.wiki/t/234253945?h=bpbkn8rqpx&wa=sd&la=en (Agioi Pantes, Amphitheatre and Kaimeni Kefala summit)

It ended up foggy and atmospheric, then drizzling and wet. The rain was very heavy that night. I stayed in Omalós overnight, the next day was much brighter and I set off across the plateau and up to Linoseli. Initially ascending Gingilos, I took the route across the boulder field to reach the saddle between Gingilos and Volakias. Here the rock resembles broken wood, huge splinters lay everywhere. Volakias is a pleasant ascent and the views stupendous

https://loc.wiki/t/234367326?h=bpbkn8rqpx&wa=sd&la=en (Volakias Summit Κορυφή Βολακιάς)

It was good to clearly see the essential rocky spur into the Tripiti gorge, good research for a future walk

The next day I packed up 4 litres of water and 2 days food and went up to Koukoulé Summit, at around 1600m. I'd seen on social media about construction for a antenna ruining the area but didn't see any sign of it thankfully. From there I followed the E4 towards Melindaou. It was raining all afternoon, glad I had waterproofs

I met a group of hunters and their dogs as I was leaving the shepherds road just after Poria, they showed a little concern as to where I was going - 'Katsiveli mitato' - how long do you think that will take?? I said 5 hours, they agreed. I made it in just over 4, in time for an hour and half of light to get changed properly, eat and have a poke around Katsiveli. The shepherd had left for the season unfortunately, though I slept very well in the bunkhouse,woken by my alarm at 8 the next morning!

That day I slowly ascended Pachnes, then followed the incredible ridge to summit Trocharis. I wasn't prepared for the difficult descent to the ridge. After Trocharis, unpleasant scree and some scrambling eventually brought me out on to the long road to Anopoli. I took the short cut ravine to the plateau and straight to Platanos for a cold beer. It was great to see Konstandinos at the helm and hear the news of their new baby

https://loc.wiki/t/234743213?h=bpbkn8rqpx&wa=sd&la=en (Crossing the Lefka Ori, Omalós - Anópoli)

The next day was a storm of still fog then high winds and horizontal rain. I ate, drank and read, managing a sunset visit to Agia Aikatarina during a well timed dry patch. The next day was bright and mild, I explored old paths that I hadn't visited in many years around Anopoli and walked up to the stump of the castle. I also took time to explore Aradhena. A pleasant day

https://loc.wiki/t/234959844?h=bpbkn8rqpx&wa=sd&la=en (A wander around Anopoli and Aradhena)

The next day, I took the ravine that meets the Illingas Gorge and onwards to Hora Sfakia. I didn't record the walk as I know it so well and always enjoy it, so this track is from another time. This year, recent rains had washed out the upper stream bed and made it difficult to walk on

https://loc.wiki/t/115768210?h=bpbkn8rqpx&wa=sd&la=en (Anópoli to Hóra Sfakía)

I had a beach day in Sfakia, then the day after I set out uphill, to visit the abandoned neighbourhood of upper Hora Sfakia, Kavros and Mouri. This was a pleasant, though entirely up hill! Once on the track that will eventually lead to Skafidi spring, I soon headed due south, over a locked gate and past a collection of large farm buildings. After the last building I started downhill, through the the woods. Soon I was met with incredible views over the Sfakíano gorge, high above the Halomata area with the huge cliff. I followed the rocky Crag, scrambling downwards for a long time until it ran out, then it was a case of getting from tree to tree in the almost vertical forest. Arriving on the gorge bed after 90 mins, a walked back to Hora Sfakia

https://loc.wiki/t/235256424?h=bpbkn8rqpx&wa=sd&la=en (Hóra Sfakía circular (via Kavros, Mouri, Sfakiano Gorge))

The next morning I took the little bus to Frankokastello for a day on the beach (does anyone know of a pleasant way to walk between Hora Sfakia and Frankokastello??). Staying in Frankokastello I did a nice circular walk the next day, visiting Skaloti Gorge, Manikas, Kallikratis and the Kallikratis Gorge. The scenery in the Agriokefala area is amazing

https://loc.wiki/t/235763804?h=bpbkn8rqpx&wa=sd&la=en (Frankokástello Circular (Skaloti Gorge and Kallikratis Gorge))

I wish I had another day in Frankokastello, but I did not. Returning to the Kallikratis gorge, I then took a shortcut to Asfendou and on to Askífou. For some reason (maybe hangover..), this day felt very tiring

https://loc.wiki/t/235911192?h=bpbkn8rqpx&wa=sd&la=en (Frangokástello - Askýfou)

I had a nice day in Askifou the next day, I walked up to the church on the hill above the plateau and back the same way to the plateau, I couldn't work out a clear route straight down hill. I was surprised to see a threshing circle near the church, high on the hill naar the ruins of a house

https://loc.wiki/t/236025393?h=bpbkn8rqpx&wa=sd&la=en (Askýfou)

My friend flew out from England to join me the next day, we ate well at Nektários in Ammoudári, and amazed the staff by eating outside when it was only 20°C. We woke early the next day and set off for Niato, considering the ascent of Kastro. The weather was fine, some clouds about but otherwise clear and not particularly windy, so we ascended Kastro up one ridge and down another. We returned to Askífou after over 10 hours out and about

https://loc.wiki/t/236304890?h=bpbkn8rqpx&wa=sd&la=en (Kástro from Askifou)

The next day we set off later, after a hearty breakfast, loaded with raki from Andreas and walnut cake from his mother. We walked to Niato, through Kali Lakkoi and on to Skafidakia following the long road to Anopoli

https://loc.wiki/t/236409359?h=bpbkn8rqpx&wa=sd&la=en (Karés Askýfou to Kámpos Anópoli)

My friend was new to Sfakia, so we took the route through the Aradhena gorge (obviously the route with the rope and ladders!) and on to Loutro via a couple of beers at Marmara

https://loc.wiki/t/236543421?h=bpbkn8rqpx&wa=sd&la=en (Aradhena Gorge)

A pleasant afternoon and evening in Loutro completed the trip - the next day ferry/bus/bus/plane back to the UK

Jay

[kokkinos vrachos]

Kalispera Jay, great report, thank you for your efforts.

Kavros and Mouri are shepherd settlements where families used to spend the summer with their animals.

When I was in Kavros in May 2019, there were shepherds in a few houses.

Best regards from Plakais, kv

[Jayhickson]

Thanks KV. It looked like quite a few houses are in good condition in Kavros and Mouri, satellite dishes, solar panels etc. I saw a Hilux parked up too

I noticed at a church is Mouri the name Λενταρης on a couple of plaques, that's the name of the family that run Panorama at Askifou. I meant to ask them about it but forgot

A lovely corner of Sfakia

[MichPaule]

The next day I packed up 4 litres of water and 2 days food and went up to Koukoulé Summit, at around 1600m. I'd seen on social media about construction for a antenna ruining the area but didn't see any sign of it thankfully.

Hi Jay,
the antenna exists and is clearly visible from Omalos plateau because it is supposed to cover the plateau.
You might not notice it coming from Koukoule because it isn't located at the highest elevation.
IMHO there are more disturbing views than this single red/white painted pole which might save lives at some time.
Best wishes

Michael (just back from Crete )

[Jayhickson]

I don't know how I missed it then - I had views of that area from the plateau and Volakias summit. I guess, like you say, it isn't as intrusive as some people have made out! I thought this idea of it would be to give reception in Samaria, Omalós plateau seems to always have good coverage everywhere

[MichPaule]

I thought this idea of it would be to give reception in Samaria, Omalós plateau seems to always have good coverage everywhere

My assumption is that they wanted to provide additional cells to allow more parallel calls and enhance triangulation capabilities (locate cell phones).
Before this new antenna only the two "radio towers" on the north edge provided mobile radio.

[admin]

Hi Jay,

a fantastic holiday - thank you so much for your report!

There are some shortcuts from Chora Sfakion towards Frangokastello. At the rubbish dump, leave the road on the right and follow the cairns. You pass by at Panagia Thymiani and then you can cross the next ravine (in caves) below Komithades. You there join the road again. After that, I do not have any good idea for continuing.... But I might be wrong and something might exist.

Best wishes
Simon

[Jayhickson]

Ah yeah, I've picked that up from the Komitades ravine heading towards Hora Sfakia. It's the area between Frankokastello and Komitades that I found so frustrating - small ravines, lots and lots of fences....time consuming and boring!

The little bus saved the day!

Hi Jay,

a fantastic holiday - thank you so much for your report!

There are some shortcuts from Chora Sfakion towards Frangokastello. At the rubbish dump, leave the road on the right and follow the cairns. You pass by at Panagia Thymiani and then you can cross the next ravine (in caves) below Komithades. You there join the road again. After that, I do not have any good idea for continuing.... But I might be wrong and something might exist.

Best wishes
Simon